Here we will build an excellent nest box for Java Finches to use.
Because Java's are bigger then your average finch you will of course need a bigger nest box.
I will show you by using photos and text how I build nest boxes to use on cage fronts, these fronts have breeding doors fitted in the top right hand corner. See my bird room page for more info! |Click here|
 MATERIALS:
   The only wood you will need for this project will be 12mm plywood & 6mm plywood.   
   Also one tube of no-nails (Glue) a roll of masking tape and just two 20mm nails (panel pins)
   Plus a small length of dowel. No! hinges to buy with these boxes.
Wood Cutting
12mm Plywood
Top
Cut 1 @ 9¾" X 6"
12mm Plywood
Bottom
Cut 1 @ 9½" X 6"
6mm Plywood
Side ( C )
Cut 1 @ 6½" X 6"
6mm Plywood
Side ( D )
Cut 1 @ 7" X 6"
6mm Plywood
Front & Back
Cut 2 @ 9½" X 7½"
Tip! Sand paper all the edges smooth as you cut them, it saves time later!
   
Now For Assembly
Let's start with the front panel. 9½" X 7½"
We are going to cut the entrance hole here
for the birds to get in and out the nest box.
As you can see in the photo we need to mark a line
1 ¾ " from the top edge and 1 ½ " from the right hand side,
where the two lines cross this is where the hole will go.
This is the tool we are going to use to cut
the right size hole, it's known as a tank cutter,
plumbers use them for cutting hole's in water tanks ect!
The hole size I use for my Java's is 2¼"
O.K. now the dust has settled.
This is the best time to sand paper the hole front and back,
to make it as smooth as possible.
The front panel is now finished, put it to one side until later.
Lets look at the top panel 9¾" x 6".
From one of the 6" edges mark a line 3" back (see photo).
We are going to cut a 45 degrees cut,
I am not to good with the hand saw cutting angels,
so I use a jig saw instead.
Make sure when you cut the 45 degrees cut,
it's slopping back towards the 3" part of the top,
other wise the hinging action will not work. (See photo)
The top panel is finished for now.
Let's start putting it together.
Take the bottom panel and run some no-nails glue along the 9 ½" edge, now take the front panel (make sure the hole is at the right hand side) and stick or nail it to the bottom panel, see photo to see how I have done it! With this panel in place, take the side panel (D) 7" X 6" and run no-nails glue to one 6" edge and one 7" edge. Stand this panel on top of the bottom panel and stick or nail to the front panel (see photo)
Do the same for side panel (C) 6½" X 6" This panel will be a bit short
don't worry this is correct. Note I am using masking tape to hold all
the joints together until the glue has set.
Now you should have a box.
Now for the top 9¾" X 6" this piece will over hang the box,
this is so you can get your fingers under the lip to lift the lid.
Now pay attention here it's important.
Take the 3" part of the top and glue it inside the box
over the entrance hole, make sure the slop of the 45 degree cut is sloping back to the side panel (D)
when it's glued in you should not see the slop in other words.
(If you are not sure Click here for a Microsoft word Doc: diagram)
Now the second part of the top is only put into box loosely for now,
so it will fit snug when all the glue has set.
This photo is just showing the nest box
drying out with all the edges taped up to hold it all together
until the glue has dried. I leave my box for a few hours, time for lunch!
If you have used nails to make this nest box you can carry on,
unless you want some lunch. LoL !
Now back to the second part of the top (the flip lid)
Lay the box on its side, like in the photo two up from this one.
Measure 4" back from panel (D) now we need to knock a 20mm nail
in here so it just goes into the second part of the top (see photo) flip the box over and repeat the procedure on this side.
See photo below so you can see what I am doing here.
Wow! Have you followed so far?
The lid should open and close easily, if it doesn't then just sand paper the edges so it will close and open smoothly.
I find the weight of this lid is heavy enough to stop the birds from opening it, unless you want to put a hook and eye on.
Basically this is it finished, all bar a few bits and bob's
Now for the bit's and bob's.
You will need a small perch for the Java's to land on;
I make mine 4" long, this is ample. I use a small plastic dowel holder like the one's budgie breeders use in their show cages.
These are Ideal because you just screw the button to the box
and just push the dowel in.
Or you can drill a hole in the box and glue a dowel in place.
To hang the box I use brass mirror plates as you can see in the photo. Makes lifting the box on and off the breeding cages easier.
At last! It's fitted to the breeding cage.
Here you can see why I have used mirror plates to hang the box.
Just to the right of the box, you can just see the breeding door on the cage front, with this open I position the nest box so the perch and nest box opening are central in the opening,
I then make a mark where the mirror plats are going to go on
the top of the cage, I then screw in two screws (not all the way)
and hang the nest box off these.
Here are the nest boxes in action in the bird room.
 
I have built these nest boxes to suit the cage fronts I had custom built for me to my own requirements. I did use nest boxes with sliding inspection doors at the back, for many a year until I lost a couple of eggs, by lifting the door the eggs just rolled and smashed on the floor.
  Not any more with these boxes its so simple, just lift the lid and look down on the nest, its also ease for nest maintenance as well. With the lid opening the opposite end to the entrance hole, it gives the Java's time to escape back into the cage. Up to now I cannot fault these nest boxes. They are also ideal for budgies.  
 

Another Project By: www.javafinch.co.uk
2002